Albi, France III & Rodez (5th in a series)

SPARKY’S BLOG

12-3-2012

Albi, France III & Rodez

(May 19^th)

Albi (tour) –

Without Aaron in tow, we had a guided visit of Albi and this proved to be a blast as we walked past Toulouse Lautrec’s home and learned of his prowess with the women.  Not sure if I believed most of what was said as this man’s diminutive size would normally preclude him from attracting the fairer sex altogether.  Needless to say, I knew it was all true and felt that perhaps there is hope for me as well….okay enough about me.

Cathedral / Sainte-Cecile

Our next visit was of the cathedral located smack-dab in the middle of the town nestled along-side the Tarn River.  The spectacular Cathedral Sainte-Cecile of Gothic origin and style was built in the 13^th century in the heart of Cathar country, is the largest brick building in the world. Perched high on a hill above the River Tarn, it looks more like a fortress than a cathedral. The interior is opulent with frescos and very interesting stained glass windows depicting not only medieval times but those of modern events as well.  I was enthralled with the “open-minded” attitude of the ruling clergy to allow such free thinking to enter their religious domain.

Votive candles sending prayers

The opulence is magnificent!

The entrance to the cathedral is grande

Gargoyles are rampantly adorned 

Boat ride of “Gabarre”

The boat ride of “Gabarre” on the River Tarn was nice but all too short.  The ride and tour lasted about 45 minutes but proved to be a visual spectacle of flora and fauna creeping into and onto the local architecture that was damaged and bombed in World War II.  The remnants were quite stark and there was evidence of great destruction and I became a bit melancholy at the thought of seeing German war planes dive bombing such splendor as the surroundings of Albi, France are quite beautiful.

A view from our boat on the Tarn River

Looking through the aqueduct and bridge

The Cathedral reigns supreme over Albi

Albi has enough charm for two cities

Lunch

We retired to the bus to head to lunch at restaurant L’Ispien Port in Les Brisses Gaillac…former rugby play Revallier is a chef/proprietor of this establishment and one would wonder what a ruffian like a former rugby player have to offer us?  Charcuterie, squab atop haricoverts, cheese dumplings and wicked aperitifs!  I ate too much and didn’t care as I tortured myself before this trip losing 15 lbs. knowing that I would put it all back on.

Wine, food and new friends made for a perfect trip!

More wine tasting

Our next stop is a visit La Cave de Tecou for another wine tasting.  It’s a wonder that France’s population isn’t totally plastered all the time as we, seemingly, drink wine all day long.  Regardless, we tasted a very tart white as our first offering (I didn’t like it) but then came the full-bodied reds with undertones of earth, pepper, nutmeg, pear, faint citrus with fragrant and flowery grapes.  Absolutely fantastic stuff and I was very pleased – probably due to the fact that I had become inebriated - a detail that gave me shivers as I had given Aaron a serious tongue-lashing in our hotel room prior to our day’s departure for doing this very same thing.  I was quite secure in my resolve to keep my clothes on and gave my drunken state a pass as I was going to enjoy myself albeit in a responsible manner.

Anyone for some wine?

This stuff was pretty wonderful!

Enjoy myself I did

As it turned out we all wanted a bit more fun after such a long visit and we had a long bus ride to Rodez the next day and figured we could sleep on the bus if needed.  We just so happened to be staying in a hotel where the lobby also doubled as a bar and the beer was flowing quite nicely.  I led the way with a round on me and we started to play cards and then the laptops came out to facilitate our fellow students need to become Facebook® friends.  Some of the older students didn't even have accounts but after much prodding; they gave in to the peer pressure and signed up for a share of the fun in the distribution of photos, comments and overall merriment.

Bailey enjoying a nice French beverage while a pregnant Tiffany looks on...

 Some members of the group made up songs and words (me) to go along with various tunes that were playing on the hotel sound system.  Others were engaged in hangman, chess (yes, the hotel had a board available), checkers and euchre (a nice Midwestern game).  Suffice it to say, we had a good, clean, all-American time and we kept our clothes on.

Come morning, we straggled downstairs one by one wearing sunglasses, wrinkled clothes and sporting a lot of wet hair as time ran short to use a hair dryer (that extra few minutes in bed really DOESN'T make a difference on how you’ll feel the rest of the day).  Our last night in Albi would be my last one of being “over-served’ as my father would call it.  Most of the group would not venture down that slippery slope of alcoholic messiness including me for the rest of the trip but I must say…..we had a swell time that night and I’m glad we all enjoyed ourselves and developed a nice bond among the group.

(May 20^th)

Rodez –

The Roquefort cheese cellars were a treat just to understand how the process evolved.  First we were schooled on how the geography had changed over hundreds of thousands of years.  The earth literally broke away from what eventually has become a small mountain and fell hundreds of feet below.  This process of the earth breaking apart and falling formed the caves of Roquefort and started a process of drafts that would carry with it spores of penicillium that imparts the cheese with its sharp and full-bodied nature.

 The process was discovered, of course, by accident when a Sheppard laid down a piece of bread and cheese but forgot it over a period of a day or so.  When the Sheppard returned he discovered a type of mold had grown on both pieces of food.  The bread tasted foul but the cheese tasted divine and thus the process was born and refined over hundreds of years becoming a legendary food product of France.

After our history lesson, we entered the caves and immediately felt the drafts that were spoken of in the video and lecture we received.  The second thing that you notice straight away is the smell which is that of a peculiar type of mold that is musty but also fragrant.  It’s kind of funny how the air doesn’t smell like the cheese itself as there is loads of it lining the shelves that are built to house it for storage during its curing process. 

Getting into the French spirit!  Yes, that's a genuine beret (I had to right?).

 If memory serves me correctly there are five stories of shelving just like that of an actual building.  That doesn’t mean that there are only five stories of cave – oh no, there is an undisclosed number of levels as some of the facts regarding the Roquefort caves are cloaked in secrecy.  I’m not sure why but were also instructed to NOT take pictures during our stay beneath the earth’s surface.  I still heard a few clicks as some group members did not heed the rules set forth by our guide.

Of course there are stories of ghosts and tragedy strewn along our walk throughout the tour but most of that went in one ear and out the other for most of us.  I was really looking forward to the tasting that came after and I was not disappointed!  There were several variations (aged at different periods) that were very different.  I wouldn't think that a few months would make that much difference in the taste of the cheese itself but it really does. 

After our Roquefort tour - full of cheese and wine; I was VERY happy!

We first tried 3 month, 6 month and 12 month variations.  The longer aged cheeses were, of course, much stronger in flavor but this doesn't mean better.  We all spied a 24 month old cheese and assumed that this would be the best tasting but it was not…..be careful of the theory of diminishing returns.  In my opinion, this older variety was musty and dull tasting but I was assured by our tour guide that it is a delicacy.  Most of our group felt much the same way I did.

Have a great day and never give up!

Mark (Sparky)

GoSparky!: Albi, France II (4th in a series)

GoSparky!: Albi, France II (4th in a series): SPARKY’S BLOG 11-23-2012 Albi, France II 4 castles of the Cathar Chateaux of Lastours Shortly thereafter our thoughts turn t...

Albi, France II (4th in a series)

SPARKY’S BLOG

11-23-2012

Albi, France II

4 castles of the Cathar Chateaux of Lastours

Shortly thereafter our thoughts turn to food and we’re off to lunch at the restaurant Puits du tresor at the foot of the 4 castles of the Cathar Chateaux of Lastours.  The Cathar are a very, very religious sect of folks that went to extremes to protect their way of living and thinking which is somewhat akin to the Amish of the United States but not quite.

A view from the restaurant Puits d tresor at the foot of the 4 castles

A lobster bisque as a starter

Mashed potatoes and steak (French-style!)

The Cathar built fortresses to keep the govt. forces out and had philosophies rooted in harsh ideals resembling that of upstart militia groups dotted around America but not quite.  The Cathar felt that they were the purists of the time and they probably were.  Unspoiled, pure and of sound mind, body and spirit the Cathar people were slowly persecuted and eventually cornered into these 4 castles where they eventually died from starvation and in some cases murdered by their own to keep from being taken by govt. forces which would, of course, taint their legacy.  Just a crazy-cool story.

A wonderful glace to finish the meal

We were once again spoiled by France as she gave us more culinary delights starting off with lobster bisque that walked a tightrope of salty, fishy balance and danced on your tongue instead of assaulting your taste buds.  The bread that always shows up magically unannounced is hearty and robust without need for butter to disguise its flavor giving credence to France’s skill as master Boulanger’s (bread makers). 

The 4 castles of Cathar Chateaux of Lastours

These ruins are amazing

Built in a location purposely difficult to reach

I was quite content with just the early courses but was very satisfied with the resulting fodder and cuisine that ensued.  Having mashed potatoes and steak covered with mushroom gravy is about as American as one can get but here in Lastours, France the flavor profile smacked of deep burgundy wine, pepper, thyme and buttery excellence.  I’ve never had meat and potatoes like this and will try to duplicate this when I get back home….yummy!

A special dinner

On to Albi, France and dinner at the L’Epicurean restaurant run by Swedish chef Rikard.  The reason why this is a special dinner is because we are to meet chef Mark Buhlman who was on a similar trip last year and was so enamored with France and Albi as well as this particular restaurant that he solicited chef Rikard to come back for an entire year as an apprentice.  Mark was a student just like us and he hailed from the Ft. Wayne campus so he was no stranger to half of our group.  It was a thrill to hear him speak to the group about his transformation from young American kid to a French savvy man who has become a full-fledged chef in the land that invented the profession. 

Mark Buhlman on the right and Chef Rikard on the left

Chef Rikard, Chef Michel Bouit and myself having a great champagne!

I was quite taken with his story and the vacant slot that he was about to create that I quickly jumped at the opportunity to fill his shoes and my enthusiasm was met with acceptance from all involved.  I’m extremely excited to be coming back to Albi, France for a year to be tutored in the fine art of French culinary techniques and methods from a man who is as accomplished as chef Rikard.  

Maybe I'll learn how to ......

..... make food like this someday?

These types of opportunities are very, very few and far in between.  I’m very lucky to have a situation where I’m unencumbered by the traditional strings and attachments normally associated with a man of my age.  Now, on the other hand – I do wish to have a wife and family someday as well as the American dream of having that white-picket fenced in yard and home but due to the economic downturn of the last few years…..all that has been taken away from me granting me this wonderful and fortuitous endeavor.  You gotta look on the bright side right?

Okay, now onto the dinner.  After we heard how Mark’s experience has transformed him we sat down to an elegant and “other-worldly” meal!  Our first course was a white truffle (yes, truffles!) salad with a base of baby greens (tasted so fresh!) then gruyere cheese and finally topped with the white delicacies themselves - Truly an inspired dish that made my mouth water for more.

Just outside of L'Epicurean restaurant

Next we would be introduced to sliced scallops on top of fresh pea’s sautéed in a cream/garlic sauce that was foamed just before serving.  This stuff was STUPID good!!  It’s stupid how good this course was.  It was without a doubt my favorite offering thus far.  I’m good, I’m done I don’t need anything else as I’m fully sated.  But of course there would be more and I’m not going to keep ranting on and on about the food much more as I’m starting to salivate and yearn for more of it….suffice it to say that we finished off with a type of cheesy/sugary torte with pineapple ravioli.  I don’t know how he came up with pineapple ravioli but it was a stroke of genius and something that I will never forget.  The torte was light, airy and esthetically beautiful all the while being absolutely delicious!

The incident

After the dinner, we all had a bit of time on our hands as we started our evening early so most of the group decided to have a couple of cocktails and beers at a pub a couple of doors down.  This is where the initial, serious bonding between all three schools took place.  This may have been my favorite moment of the trip where we became more of familial group instead of separate factions like before.  Yes it helped that the booze was flowing a bit but I noticed that most students were being serious about practicing proper decorum as we were ambassadors of our country and also school.  Besides, we all signed a contract outlining the behavior expected of us and overdoing the alcohol intake was firmly stated among the rhetoric as an activity NOT TO DO!

Aaron sleeping on the bus with Karen

 The time came to think about heading back to our hotel rooms for a good night’s sleep as we have a full schedule of activities ahead of us the next day.  Just as we passed by L’Epicurean Restaurant; we noticed that chef Rikard and Mark Buhlman were entertaining some of the other students having sort of an after-party if you will.  We were summoned inside for additional drinks and charcuterie enticements.  Chef Rikard was slicing off Iberico Ham (Spanish ham that costs $900 a pound) and feeding it to us as if there was no consequence.  Talk about hospitality!  I've never been served like a king as this. On this night we were all treated like royalty and in this moment, I almost cried.  I’m not used to such generosity and may never receive such treatment again so I savored it and relished in this flash of giving for it will all be over before we know it and soon will be a cherished memory.

Aaron forcing a kiss ....  perhaps a bit of foreshadowing of things to come?

Unfortunately, while we were bonding and engaging in light-hearted frivolity one of us was walking down a path of darkness and ugliness.  Aaron my roommate is a very serious diabetic and isn't used to nights of liquor and heightened partying.  He more or less drank so much that he became embalmed and his thoughts turned to that of a mischievous child with the emphasis on “child”.  The majority of the group took the high road and sauntered off to sleep but Aaron took part in a repulsive and sickening act.  Turns out that he was goaded into taking off his clothes (yes, completely naked) and jumping into a nearby fountain forsaking all rational thought and disrespecting himself, the group, Ivy Tech and stomping all over his role in representing good upstanding Americans traveling abroad in a foreign land.

Just because you are dared or double-dared into doing a sordid and nauseating act of stupidity doesn't mean you actually do it!  I was horrified and sickened by the news and even more so by the photographic evidence supplied by one of the students unlucky enough to witness such disgusting behavior.  There are laws against this in the United States and there are laws against this in France.  This begs the question: “Why did he do this?”  After all, Aaron is a professor of law back home in Indiana.  He should have known better!

I saw the look on the faces of Chef Bricker and Michel Bouit as they gazed unapprovingly at the pictures proving his guilt - very sad and completely inexcusable.  Aaron was so trashed that he was physically unable to accompany the group the next day on our outing of the market exploration, cathedral touring and boating the Tarn River supplying us with visual grandeur that we will never forget. 

Albi, France

On the River Tarn

One of the students asked Michel Bouit if a person ever missed an activity until this day and Michel sadly replied “no, never” in a very dejected tone of voice.  I became instantly sad for him and Aaron was immediately given the mantel of pariah.  Later in the trip he would cement this designation even further but that’s later.

The outdoor market in Albi, France

Amazing produce sold on the street

Imagine a supermarket just outside your door

Taking a breather at the market

A beautiful medieval city indeed!

Cruising the River Tarn

The River Tarn

A view of the Cathedral overlooking the River Tarn

Have a great day and never give up!

Mark (Sparky)

GoSparky!: Carcassonne/Albi (3rd in a series)

GoSparky!: Carcassonne/Albi (3rd in a series): Sparky's Blog 11-14-2012 The Canal du Midi The Picnic Next up is a picnic on the Canal du Midi which is a 240 km long ca...

Carcassonne/Albi (3rd in a series)

Sparky's Blog

11-14-2012

The Canal du Midi

The Picnic

Next up is a picnic on the Canal du Midi which is a 240 km long canal that connects a short cut around Spain from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea (as you should know the French and Spanish didn’t get along too well for a very long time).  We arrived at a clearing along-side the canal that was complete with more white linen and a banquet-style long table set with real crystal, flowers and china-ware.  I have to keep pinching myself to see if this is really happening to me.  What the hell did I do to deserve this?  I feel as if I’m a king of some far-away land and that I’m traveling my realm surveying all that is mine.  To be catered to at this level of sophistication is a bit daunting but supremely enjoyable.

Elegance on the Canal du Midi

A quiet table as we stuffed our faces!

The lunch was prepared by a local company that specializes in grilled treats and on this day we were offered skewers of fish, pork and fowl that were seasoned perfectly.  Every other accompaniment served to balance our meal all the while being subservient to wonderful wines of the region.  This meal by the canal was probably the most light-hearted and carefree one that we’ll experience as there are no pretentious waiters or stuffy atmospheres of an interior joint that might frown upon burping.  Yes, this setting will be one of my favorite as I’m quite fond of the great outdoors….quite fond indeed!

Quite the starter!

Surf and Turf on skewers.

 Dining al-fresco is one thing but dining in the outdoors resplendent with a symphony of bird songs, cricket chirps, babbling water, rustling leaves from above as the wind gently caresses the trees on its way to the Mediterranean Sea will put one in a state of ideal harmony.  That is what I felt on this day – this hour – with these people as like-minded as I; truly enjoying a fantastical moment in time!

Cassoulet

Our dinner was to be a very special party because we would be schooled in our preparation this evening by a master chef in addition to his specialty being Cassoulet.  We are dining at Chateau de Saint-Martin with Master Chef Rodrigues (the Pope of Cassoulet).  He has been making and perfecting this dish for over 19 years and has brought his son into the business as well.

Master Chef Rodrigues

Chef Rodrigues passing the torch to his son

 The recipe is peasant-based in nature as the country-men would use what they found often at arm’s length.  Most ingredients like garlic, onions, leeks and beans could be harvested in one’s own personal garden - the sausage and chicken could be purchased cheap or absconded from a local farm while the herbs could be taken from the country-side.  In addition, the wine can be either made by them or again, stolen from a merchant.  It’s more romantic for me to fantasize about a minor criminal element being associated with this recipe….I’m just saying.

We were regaled with stories from Chef’s Rodriquez and Bouit on the art of making Cassoulet.  It takes at least 3 hours to bake in a special earthen pot and when done properly tastes like the land of its origin.  Cassoulet is very hearty (various meats) and bold (garlic, onions) and herbaceous (thyme, bouquet garni) and quite filling!  I was very satisfied due to the many levels of flavor and textures aside from the fact that it was expertly made by the pope himself!  Wonderful stuff, really good.

But that wasn’t it – oh no there was more, much more.  We would be entertained by the president of Cassoulet with wine and song, after all – we are in France and it wouldn't be neighborly to just feed their guests when you can give them an entire evening of traditional amusement welcoming us into their country as one of their own.  This would be a night not soon forgotten. 

A man in a red robe appeared from behind a mysterious door (okay, it was the kitchen door) bellowing dulcet tones of baritone that tickled my ears as they were expertly delivered.  This man can sing!  We encouraged him to engage in an encore and much to our delight he sang additional songs associated with the land, region and food.  I wasn't expecting such entertainment and our Cassoulet encounter became something much, much more.

The President of the Cassoulet historic society

Soon enough, the singing was over and another robed man appeared with parcels of paper; looks like we’re all about to become the entertainment as we would receive a diploma of accomplishment for our Cassoulet instruction and later culinary pleasure.  There was a catch, however, because we would have to repeat a historic Occitan (medieval language) chant that its meaning is wrapped in mystery.  AKOL BYMIE!  Again and again we heard this chant repeated by each member of our traveling team.  And one by one we would receive our coveted diploma.  Later in our trip we would by happen-stance ask casual French folks what AKOL BYMIE meant and every single time we were greeted with snickers and giggling but never a proper definition.  It is my belief that our mysterious phrase is somewhat akin to the “Snipe-hunt” that young adolescents are sent on as a harmless joke by those in-the-know.

A tour .....

..... and lecture of preparation made this a wonderful night!

(May 18^th)

Albi (giant gouffre of Cabrespine / natural cave) –

Today we depart for Albi, France and as we leave the great castle behind us growing every more faint with the distance catching glimpses through the misty rain; I can’t help but harken back on the first two days of this fantastic journey and wonder what could possibly top this? 

Along the way we will visit an enormous cave that is a giant gouffre of Cabrespine (natural cave).  The drive here is a bit more interesting as the cave is nestled in the foot hills of the Pyrenees Mountains.  In the distance I can see the terrain become more like a relief map than actual road.  Before we know it, we are slowly snaking our way back and forth on switch-back roads ascending our way to the top to find our visual prize awaiting us.

Felt like I was either on or IN the moon

Stalagmites and Stalactites were beautiful

It’s starting to rain in earnest as we disembark the bus and the fog floats lazily through the hills giving way to a spooky nature of an area that needs no extra help in this regard.  There is something about large hills and mountains that evoke a mystic nature as lore and legend springs forth among the locals while engaged in conversation, there is always going to be a figure that lurks just beyond reality but firmly planted within the community as a proper legend.

We enter the doors of the store to purchase tickets and we’re bombarded by the trinkets and souvenirs that litter every road-side attraction just like in the states.  While walking into the doors that house the great spectacle I begin to smell the odoriferous makings of something wet, dark and dead (there are over 30,000 bats surviving in the great gouffre among other species).

This is the "nature" that I appreciate and love so much!

Just outside the great cave on a rainy afternoon.

As we come upon the great expanse that slowly becomes evident with each careful step – my jaw drops with astonishment to behold the spectacle that lies before us.  There is a huge gorge INSIDE the mountain unlike anything I’ve ever seen.  The artificial lighting provided helps to illuminate the varying different species of rock and development that have taken place over millions of years.  The colors are varied and spectacular and the differing textures, seemingly, never end.

The sheer enormity of this place makes you feel minuscule

Eerily discomforting!

I’m humbled by the enormity of this scene and also can’t help but understand that something much bigger than myself is represented here inside this mountain - for inside this bedrock of limestone, granite, quartz and other various minerals resides a countless number of stories that carve out the history of mankind in this region.  The species and sub-species that make up this eco-system gave birth to that of which supported and sustained the land, air and water to provide us with the start of the fabric that weaves our story.  Yeah, more cool stuff to think about that makes me feel very small.

Have a great day and never give up!

Mark (Sparky)

GoSparky!: Carcassonne, France (2nd in a series)

GoSparky!: Carcassonne, France (2nd in a series): SPARKY’S BLOG 11-7-2012 CARCASSONNE, FRANCE Carcassonne – After we collected our bags in Toulouse we begin our drive to Carc...